Varanasi’s Malaiyo: Butter Dew Winter Dessert
The streets of Varanasi are bustling with secrets, and Malaiyo is one of them. There’s something incredibly ethereal about the combination of milk, Kesar pista, and dew drops that make this delicious treat so light and fluffy. It’s a well-kept secret of Varanasi, and it’s just as delicious as it looks.
A tale of butter and love-divine, spanning centuries like a vine. So strong, it broke the norms — the story of Lord Krishna and his buttery forms. How he smiled when stealing it from lands afar, showing his people it’s all just one grand lark.
“Butter is very important to the people of India,” explains a Sadhu Baba at Harishchandra Ghat in Varanasi, as his hands knead the soft ghee while offering a small portion of Malaiyo to the miniature murals of Lord Krishna and his consort Radha. The story of Krishna and butter is one of love, purity, and grace, that binds us in its embrace. So powerful, it’s a reminder that it can conquer all — and that Lord Krishna and butter will always be entwined.
Makhan (butter) has been associated with Lord Krishna since ancient times, who is thought to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the world’s preserver. It’s said that he would sneak into people’s homes at night to steal butter from churning pots. This behaviour, however, was seen as an expression of his divine love. Lord Krishna declared Varanasi his favourite location, and it is believed that the Godhead himself, “Krishnasya Devam Swayam,” resides in the holy city, and many pray to him along Ganga’s banks. I plunged into the sea of devotees, my mind hypnotized by the chantings, to discover Lord Krishna in the city of Lord Shiva.
A local told me I was a fool to leave without tasting his favourite dessert, Malaiyo. This unique delicacy is made with Makkhan (butter) and winter dew and is a must-have in the city of Varanasi between November and January. The sweet smell of Malaiyo wafted me to a nearby sweet shop! I was astounded by the creamy and fluffy concoction of milk, sugar, and spice. Every bite I took, the flavours burst into a heavenly paradise and my taste buds danced with joy. The soothing warmth embraced me, a cosy winter wonderland, and I craved more. So, I asked for more, and the delectable delight was delivered.
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But what is Malaiyo?
Malaiyo, also known as Makhan Malai, is an essential part of the winter experience in Varanasi. Made from Makhan (clarified butter) and malai (milk cream), it is known as the “King of Sweets,” and has been enjoyed by people all over India for centuries. Its creamy texture and sweet flavour can be devoured on its own, as a topping, or as a filling in pastries.
The Making of Malaiyo
Ah, winter in Varanasi! A season of celebration and cosying up with hot cups of chai. But what’s the best way to enjoy the cold weather? Well, legend has it that the answer can be found in the kitchens of Kanpur – then known as Oudh – where the delectable Makhan Malai was born. It’s no surprise that Malaiyo has been enjoyed by people of all ages in India for centuries – the secret recipe remains a mystery, though it is believed that dew drops are needed to get the perfect foamy texture! This Makhan Malai which has recently made it a global sensation – is made with the finest ingredients, and carefully chosen for the most heavenly flavour.
To make this heavenly dessert requires nothing short of tenderness and patience. Milk is boiled over a stove using cow dung cakes as fuel, before being carefully stirred with select ingredients at the perfect temperature. Once the mixture has cooled down completely, it is then filled in buckets and hung under the starry night sky for a minimum of six to eight hours. And to make it just that much more special, fresh milk cream and sugar are added, along with cardamom powder, saffron strands, and a dash of yellow food colour, before being simmered overnight.
The sweet scent of Malaiyo only fills the air in winter, when it’s cold enough to keep it from melting. But it’s worth the wait! Low in calories and sugar, it’s a boon to health-conscious people and a joyous reminder that winter won’t last forever. Hawkers wheel their carts of sweet delight and it’s quickly devoured in many cups – it tastes as delicious as it looks.
Legend has it that Makhan Malai was first discovered in Kanpur while Shahjahanabad was being built and the Mughal Emperor was ordering food to feed the workers. Little did they know that this would become a delicacy fit for royalty! It’s said that the delightful dish was created for Prince Murad Baksh by the Khansamas, and was later perfected by Princess Jahanara who designed the first resort at Chandni Chowk.
The addition of saffron, mawa, and nuts is said to be a Mughal kitchen touch to the rustic butter dish, known as Makhan Malai in UP since time immemorial. And while some suggest the first incarnation of the Daulat Chaat (another variation) hailed from Muradabad, the city’s cuisine began to acquire the same lip-smacking flavours during Prince Murad’s reign without the opulence of the Mughal court – thus, Makhan Malai was created!
This traditional winter dessert in Varanasi is frequently served with hot, steaming cups of sweet, frothy milk flavoured with saffron, topped with dollops of fresh cream, served in an earthen pot or Kulhad, and adorned with almonds. It’s the perfect way to warm up!
The heavenly treat kept me warm, throughout the night. My heart and soul were filled with pure delight, and as I said my goodbye, I thanked the Lord of Malaiyo, for this delightful wintertime treat – one that I will never, ever let go of! From its unique, creamy flavour to its heavenly aroma, Malaiyo quickly became my favourite dessert – and to this day, whenever I think of Varanasi, I can’t help but think of the unique flavour of Malaiyo.
