Visiting Maheshwar: A 5th-Century Heritage Hinge

Madhya Pradesh, an idyllic destination located at the heart of central India, has an abundance of awe-inspiring landmarks and monuments that have been preserved through the centuries! Not to mention the 10th-century temples and palaces that will take your breath away. This majestic state was closely linked to the Holkar Dynasty, who added a great deal of beauty and grandeur to the place. One of the most iconic small towns in MP is Maheshwar – its very name evoking the image of the Great God Shiva! The culture of this town is steeped in mythology and its history is recounted in the ancient Puranas.

In the 18th-century, famous Malhar Rao Holkar III played a major role in the development of Maheshwar. Maheshwar is a mesmerizing town with a deep-rooted history and cultural heritage, located just 95km from the bustling city of Indore. Once home to King Arjuna and the legendary Jamadagni Rishi, Renuka Devi and Lord Parashurama of the Mahabharata, Maheshwar is a town transformed from its ancient city, Somwanshiya. With 5th-century handloom factories and carvings on its Fort walls narrating its ruling history, a visit to this Malwa town on the banks of the Narmada River is a must.

To get there, simply take the road to Pithampur, heading towards Manpur, then Dhamnod until you reach Ajanta Talkies or the Maheshwar local police station, a drive of about 2.5 hours. So, what are you waiting for? An adventure awaits! A right turn from the Police Station will take you to the historic Ahilya Fort, home to the renowned Chapai Handloom. Dating back to the 5th century, Maheshwar has been at the forefront of India’s textile weaving industry. Producing more than 1 Lakh metres of fabric each year, these weavers are more than just artisans – they are the backbone of an industry that has empowered women for centuries.

From the symbolic Maheshwari sarees to the ever-evolving craftsmanship, the Chapai Handloom is a testament to the rich culture of the region. Let’s take a look! Come experience the royal splendour of Ahilya Fort, the 18th-century stone structure built by the Maratha Queen, Ahilya Devi Holkar. Start your tour early in the morning at 9 AM to beat the midday heat and take in the majestic beauty of this majestic fortress. After 11 AM, the sun starts to shine brightly, so be sure to explore all the little corners of this architectural marvel before the day gets too hot.

Not only will you get to marvel at the fort, but you can also observe the Queen’s cultured-taste in the art all around the town of Maheshwar! As you walk down the winding steps towards the majestic River Narmada, you’ll be captivated by the intricate and mesmerizing carvings that adorn the city’s temples, buildings and ghats. Part of the Devi Ahilya Fort remains in the care of Richard Holkar, the son of the last Maharaja of Indore, Shivaji Rao Holkar, while the rest is open to visitors like us! Take a moment to admire the intricate work of artistry on the fortress walls, and the outer temples, and be transported to a time when the palace was truly alive.

Imagine the Marathas gracing the court in their dazzling Phetas, and the heavenly petals of sacred ceremonies scattered in the air – it’s truly a sight to behold! I let my creativity soar as I imagined a life of royalty in this lavish palace belonging to the Holkar Dynasty. After embarking on a tour of the Fort, I hopped onto a small boat to take a cruise down River Narmada and visit the Raj Rajeshwar and Akhileshwar Temples. We even made a pit stop at a Shiva Temple located in the middle of the river – it was quite the sight to behold!

Upon finishing up our temple-hopping escapades, my pals and I decided to take a break at Labboo’s Cafe – and I must say, it was a much-needed respite indeed! This quaint cafe located just outside the fort offers a wide array of delicious local treats and tantalizing coffees that will have your taste buds dancing with delight! Plus, it has squeaky-clean washrooms – a true blessing for any weary traveler looking for some relief from the autumn chill. You may already be familiar with the stunning beauty of Maheshwar and the Narmada River, seen in many movies and TV serials like Bajirao Mastani, Ashoka, Yamala Pagla Deewana, Neerja, Tulsi, Tevar, Mahashivratri, and Jhansi Ki Rani.

But nothing beats actually visiting Devi Ahilya Fort to experience these scenes and emotions in person! Before you leave Maheshwar, don’t forget to stop by Mahalaxmi Handloom Stores on the fort road – the perfect spot to pick up some authentic Maheshwari styled attires and fabrics! These exquisite sarees are usually a fine blend of cotton and pure silk, delicately decorated with Zari-Brocade edging in various designs.

Visiting Maheshwar wouldn’t be complete without admiring the beautiful, eye-catching designs featuring floral, stripes, and checkered borders. Later that afternoon, we decided to check out the Jhira Bagh Palace in Dhar for a scrumptious lunch. If you’re looking for a more local experience, Narmada Retreat, Panchvati Palace, Indian Heritage Food, Maheshwar Cottage Restaurant and Rajrajeshwar Bhojnalaya are some of the most recommended restaurants in the area. For a truly unforgettable experience, come during monsoons or winter. It’s an experience you won’t soon forget!

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